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Tips and Techniques

July 24, 2007

The Stainless-Steel Nonstick Trick

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A respected chef shared this handy trick with me while we were cooking for an event last year. I was running the sauté station, which had stainless-steel cookware, and the tofu kept sticking to the skillet even though I had added oil to the pan.

Chef came over, took a clean pan, added a small pinch of salt, and heated the pan on the stovetop for a few minutes. He then added just a little oil. Amazingly, the tofu I added to the pan didn't stick even when I was on the third and fourth batch.

If only I had known this trick when visiting my boyfriend's parents for the first time. They were skeptical of the tofu that we were going to make them for breakfast but willing to give it a try. I realized the sad fate of the tofu the moment I saw their stainless-steel pans. Until then, I had only cooked with nonstick, and I had no clue what I was doing with stainless steel. The result was this half-burnt, half-raw crumbled mess that stuck to the pan and resembled what most people end up with the first time they cook tofu, but I've been doing this for more than 11 years! It was a sad, sad site, but thanks to chef's essential tip, I've had a problem-free relationship with stainless steel ever since.

July 31, 2007

Mad Knife Skills

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Good knife skills are just as important as learning how to drive or even kiss: If you want to get anywhere, you have to master the basics. For some, these skills come naturally, and others may have to spend years practicing. The key is starting with the right tools. Imagine learning to drive in a 1971 Ford Pinto that has two flat tires, one headlight, and no seat belts. To say it would be scary is an understatement. The same is true of learning good knife skills. If you are using an old, dull blade that came in a 20-piece knife set, chances are you will not have the best experience. In order to develop proper knife skills, you first need to find the best knife for you.

When I was shopping for my first chef's knife, I spent days looking, asking a million questions and annoying the sales staff at most specialty stores. Should I buy an 8-inch French knife—known for its excellent curve that helps create an easy rocking motion—or a Japanese knife with a blade that is sharpened at 15 degrees, giving it a thinner, sharper blade than the French knife? After going to countless shops and digging around online, I found the perfect knife for me.

Through my research, I found that one of the most important things to consider when purchasing a knife is what material the blade is made of. I prefer high carbon stainless steel—such blades stay sharp and do not discolor—but be sure to get something that works best for you. The following are a few of the most popular blade options:

•Carbon steel: stays sharp but can rust or discolor easily

•Stainless steel: does not stay sharp but does not discolor

•Titanium: lighter than steel and holds its edge longer—it's very flexible and not appropriate for chopping or slicing

•Ceramic: more delicate than steel but stays sharp at least 10 times as long

The second most important thing to consider is what material the handle is made of. My knife has a Micarta handle—a synthetic material that is a very popular choice because of its durability. Here are a few more common materials, all of which are very popular for different reasons:

•Wood: pleasing to the touch—wood is high-maintenance and absorbs bacteria (yuck!)

•Stainless steel: does not absorb bacteria and lasts longer than wood handles but can get a bit slippery

•Composition: molded plastic that has a tendency to come loose but is very affordable

I also found that just holding each knife in my hand to see how it feels was a great way to determine which one was right for me. Now that you have found the perfect knife, let's learn the basics. The most common cuts the home cook needs to master are:

•Chop: a larger cut that does not need to be uniform

•Dice: cubes that range from 1/4-inch to 3/4-inch in size—uniform size is very important

•Mince: a very small cut that is uniform in size but not in shape—commonly used for herbs, onions, shallots, and garlic

•Julienne: narrow, fine "matchsticks"—used in recipes with short cook times

•Chiffonade: finely cut strips of leafy vegetables or herbs, commonly used for garnish

Start by learning how to properly hold your new knife, then try the seven basic knife cuts covered in Chow.com's excellent video tutorial.

Now, armed with the right knife and all the basic cuts, your time in the kitchen will be even more enjoyable—like driving a trusty Honda instead of that old Pinto.



October 8, 2007

Pickling: Part Two

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After I posted my September 14 entry, Pickling: The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly, artist Carmelle Safdie contacted me to say that the good definitely outweighs the bad and the ugly.

She was kind enough to share her flavorful recipes for Indian pickled radishes, pickled carrot sticks, salt-brined dill green beans, and pickled eggplant slices—which she says are great served on crackers or toast—as well as share a few photographs.

After reading her recipes, it became immediately clear that these pickled gems would be very different than the Kool-Aid pickle I encountered a while back. And yes, by different I mean much, much better and edible. I can't wait to try them. Thanks, Carmelle!





Pickled Eggplant Slices

2 lbs. eggplant, peeled and cut into 1-inch rounds
Salt for sprinkling on the eggplant
1 1/2 cups white vinegar
1 cup water
Dried oregano, to taste
4-6 cloves garlic, crushed
Olive oil sufficient to cover the eggplant

•Place the eggplant slices in a colander and sprinkle each layer with salt. Let stand for 2 to 3 hours, shaking every 30 minutes, to let the bitter juices drain.

•Bring the vinegar and water to a boil in a large pot. Poach the eggplant slices for 3 minutes. Drain.

•Stack the eggplant slices in a large glass jar, sprinkling the oregano and crushed garlic between each layer. Pour enough olive oil into the jar to cover the slices.

•Put a lid on the jar and let stand for 1 week.

Indian Pickled Radishes

4 tsp. black mustard seeds
4 oz. mustard oil
1 lb. small red or pink radishes, washed and cut into 1/4-inch rounds
2 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. turmeric
1 tsp. cayenne pepper

•Grind the mustard seeds coarsely in a spice grinder or with a mortar and pestle.

•In a small saucepan, heat the oil until extremely hot and then let cool to room temperature—this will sweeten the flavor of the oil.

•Mix all the ingredients together in a bowl and then transfer into glass jar. Cover the jar and place in the sun, shaking 2 to 4 times daily for 4 to 8 days. The radishes are done when sour.

•Store in the refrigerator or a cool area.

Pickled Carrot Sticks

3 lbs. carrots, cut into sticks
4 cloves garlic
2 bay leaves
6 whole allspice
1 Tbsp. salt
1 1/2 cups white vinegar
Cool water sufficient to fill the jar

•Pack the carrot sticks into a large glass jar with the garlic, bay leaves, and allspice.

•Dissolve the salt in the vinegar, and then pour into the jar. Fill the remaining space in the jar with cool water.

•Place a lid on the jar, but do not screw the lid on tightly, and let stand for 10 to 14 days, or until the carrots sink to the bottom of the jar.

•Store in the refrigerator.

Salt-Brined Dill Green Beans

4 lbs. fresh green beans
1 gallon water
1/2 cup salt
1 bunch fresh dill
6 cloves garlic
1 Tbsp. mustard seeds
2 bay leaves

•Wash the green beans well and let dry.

•Place the water in a large sterilized pickling crock or a very large glass jar and add the salt, stirring to dissolve. Add the dill, garlic, mustard seeds, and bay leaves and place the green beans on top. Put a weight—such as a plate weighed down by a small jar of water—on top of the beans to submerge them in the brine. Cover.

•Check every day and remove any scum that develops on the surface of the brine.

•After about 10 days, the beans should be ready. They will be olive green in color and sour. If the beans develop mold or get mushy, discard them.

•To stop the fermentation process and store the beans, sterilize 4 quart-sized or 8 pint-sized jars and pack the beans into them. Boil the strained brine for 5 minutes. Let cool to room temperature and then pour into the jars, leaving 1/2 inch of space at the top. Seal using a boiling water bath or a steam canner and store in the refrigerator or pantry.


November 9, 2007

The Art of Soba

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Making soba, the popular Japanese buckwheat noodle, is definitely an art form that takes great skill and much time to perfect. The high buckwheat content can make this a tricky little—er, big—dough to work with. The work must all be done by hand, which can be uber time-consuming but also great fun, if that's what you're into—and I am.

After using the proper techniques to mix the flour and water—you have to know how to work it—the dough must be rolled out into a circle and then rolled out again into a rectangle that's 1.5 millimeters thick. Of course, this requires a huge rolling pin, and then cutting the dough requires a huge knife. Getting the precise measurements correct and knowing how to work the dough can be difficult, unless you're a soba master—and I am not.

It's shameful, I know, but that is why I stick to store-bought noodles that can easily be cooked in minutes. Eating the healthy and tasty noodles makes me feel balanced and energized. I know it sounds crazy and hippyish, but it's true.

Soba can be enjoyed hot or cold; both ways are good. The Spicy Soba Noodles With Shiitakes and Cabbage pictured here is right in the middle, with cold noodles tossed in a warm sauce. Pair this with a little unfiltered sake—I like to say "sake to me"—and you'll have a little Japanese feast.

For more info on the art of soba, check out these great resources: FXCuisine.com, Soba Advice, Wikipedia, and Japan-Guide.com.

January 23, 2008

Ask the Vegan Chef, Part 2

Not sure of the difference between tofu and tempeh? Need to know how to make vegan versions of your family's favorite recipes? Worried about how a vegan diet will affect your health?

Luckily, chef and author Robin Robertson kindly answers questions just like these, right here on VegCooking.com, in the monthly column titled "Ask the Vegan Chef." If you have a question for Robin, browse past questions and answers here, where you can also submit your own questions.

As promised, this is part two of the sneak peek at Robin's answers to your latest questions.

Ask the Vegan Chef, Part 2
Answers by Robin Robertson

Q. I am working on redoing our vegetarian options on our plated menu here at the Hynes Convention Center. I want to start using vegan meats. I have a bunch of recipes for the basic vegan meats, but they all call for veggie beef broth or veggie fish stock, etc. What I can't find is how to make the veggie meat broths. Any info you could give me would be of great help. Thank you.

A. A good rich homemade vegetable stock can be used to add great flavor to recipes—you might try that first and see if you don't agree. If you really want a more "meaty" flavor, you could add one of the following products to your broth (available in natural food stores or online): Vegex Beefy Flavoring, Vogue VegeBase Vegetable Broth Mix, or Vogue Reduced Sodium Instant Vegetarian Chicken Base. Here's one site that sells these products: www.healthy-eating.com.

Q. I've tried to go vegetarian many times but don't seem to have the "intestinal fortitude" for it. Let's just say, all those beans and tofu do not agree with me. How can I become vegetarian without spending the day in the bathroom, popping Tums every hour, and burping every three minutes? Can it happen with a gradual adjustment? Is there a bean out there that's easier to digest? Or a way to cook them that would be easier on my system? I really want to stop eating meat, but it sure makes life uncomfortable! Any input would be appreciated.

A. Here are some things that can help: Soak dried beans in water for eight hours or overnight, and then discard the soaking water before cooking. After soaking, drain the beans and cook them in fresh water. Be sure to cook the beans until they're very soft, because this will make them more digestible. Adding the dried sea vegetable kombu or the herb epazote to a pot of beans is believed to help make them more digestible. Just add 2 teaspoons dried epazote or a 2-inch strip of kombu to the pot before cooking the beans. Begin eating beans just a few times a week until your body gets used to digesting them. Soon, you should be able to eat them more often. Some beans are said to be easier to digest than others. Among the most digestible are adzuki, black-eyed peas, and lentils. If all else fails, use a digestive enzyme product to make beans easier to digest. These products are generally taken as a tablet or sprinkled on cooked beans before eating them.

Q. This Christmas, I was given a Lodge cast-iron Dutch oven to use at my campsite. It came with a cookbook with all sorts of chicken, beef, etc., recipes. My daughter is vegan, and I try to stay as close to her diet as possible. Where can I find vegan recipes for cooking over my campfire?

A. Check out this VegCooking.com feature: "Cooking With Fire". There are also some cookbooks that can help, such as The Vegetarian Grill by Andrea Chesman. You also might enjoy some of the quick-and-easy recipes for cooking with nonperishable food in Apocalypse Chow: How to Eat Well When the Power Goes Out by Jon Robertson (and for which I wrote the recipes).


January 24, 2008

The Basics on Balsamic

The best balsamic vinegar, and some would argue the only true balsamic, comes from the northern region of Italy. Unfermented white grape juice is boiled down to produce the must, which is further reduced and then aged in wooden barrels. The result is a complex vinegar with a sweet and fruity taste, dark color, and syrupy consistency. What I've just described is very different from what you'll find in the average supermarket.

Most supermarkets carry only commercial-grade balsamic, which is mixed with red wine vinegar. It's not as sweet, lighter in color, and thinner. Unfortunately, finding the real deal may not be easy for you. If you're at the store, check the ingredients for the percentage of must; only the true balsamic is 100 percent must, with no vinegar. But driving all over town in search of good vinegar might not be the best approach. Try ordering from sites such as Olive Nation that offer a variety of vinegars aged up to 50 years and costing up to $200!

I am not saying you need to spend that much on a good balsamic—you don't—but splurging just a little can be worth it. The rich complexity of the vinegar makes it perfect for drizzling on ripe strawberries or soy ice cream, and it can even be sipped on its own.

January 30, 2008

Peppercorn Primer

With so many varieties to choose from, it is hard to know which peppercorn is right for you. Now, I know this is keeping many of you awake at night, so I've created a quick guide that covers the basics.

Black pepper is from the unripe berries of the pepper plant. They are cooked and then dried, turning them into the shriveled berries used worldwide. The bite of black pepper is suitable for seasoning in most foods.

White pepper is the seed of the ripened fruit. The fruit is soaked in water, and then the flesh is removed to obtain the seed. White pepper is a little milder than black pepper and is commonly used in light-colored dishes such as mashed potatoes, white sauces, or light-colored soups.

Green pepper is also made from the unripe berries. They are packed in brine or freeze-dried to maintain the green color. Because it's milder than black and white pepper, use green pepper in dishes that require less kick.

•The rare pink peppercorn is the ripe red pepper berry. It isn't a true peppercorn but makes a great complement to a peppercorn blend.

Now that you know the basics, make sure your pepper maintains peak flavor by storing it in an airtight container in a dark location. Also, to achieve optimum flavor, freshly grind your peppercorns using a peppermill.

March 6, 2008

Egg Replacement Tips and Tricks

Many vegan cooks already know about the two most popular ways to replace eggs in a dish: using Ener-G Egg Replacer for baking, and using tofu for scrambles, quiches, or custards. But there are many other options out there that may perform better, depending on your recipe.

Here's a quick rundown on other egg replacement options:

•1 egg = 2 Tbsp. potato starch: Try this when you need an egg replacer that binds.

•1 egg = 1/4 cup puréed prunes

•1 egg = 1/4 cup applesauce: Great in desserts.

•1 egg = 1 mashed banana: Also good in desserts, but will make the final product more dense. Add 1/2 tsp. baking powder for a lighter texture.

•1 egg = 2 Tbsp. water + 1 Tbsp. oil + 2 tsp. baking powder

•1 egg = 1/4 cup mashed potatoes: Works as a binder in appropriate recipes.

•1 egg = 1 Tbsp. ground flax seed simmered in 3 Tbsp. water: Great for adding healthy omega-3 fatty acids to a dish.

•1 egg white = 1 Tbsp. plain agar powder dissolved in 1 Tbsp. water, whipped, chilled, and whipped again.

Remember that it's important to choose the appropriate replacer for each dish. Puréed prunes won't work in an "omelet," and mashed potatoes probably won't make the most convincing angel food cake. It's important to think about the function of the egg you are replacing—is it there for binding or leavening?—and think about the flavors of the dish. And after a little trial and error, you'll find at least one way to replace the eggs in just about any dish.

May 28, 2008

Word of the Week: Agar-Agar

Agar-agar, also known as kanten, is a flavorless gelling agent that is derived from seaweed. I know the name sounds strange, but try to be open-minded and give it a try, because it's a wonderful way to replace gelatin in many recipes.

Agar can be purchased in flake, powder, or bar form from many health-food stores and Asian markets and from some grocery stores, such as Whole Foods. And if those options don't work for you, just buy it online. To use agar, dissolve it in liquid and then let it set for about an hour—the firming process doesn't even require refrigeration. Also, you can use almost any liquid you'd like, so get creative with it. Just remember that for a firmer gel, add more agar-agar, and for a softer gel, add more liquid. I think you get the idea.

Here's a quick ratio rundown:

•Substitute powdered agar-agar for gelatin using equal amounts.

•1 Tbsp. of agar-agar flakes is equal to 1 tsp. of agar-agar powder.

•Set 2 cups of liquid using 2 tsp. of agar-agar powder, 2 Tbsp. of agar-agar flakes, or one bar.

Looking for ways to use agar? Here's a Web roundup of a few interesting, and one downright weird, recipes:

Dude, Where's the Stove? shares a recipe for Mom's Kohi Kanten (coffee pudding).

Tofu for Two uses it to make the filling of a Creamy Lime Pie.

Why a Vegan? takes the award for weirdest use of agar-agar, in Vegan Jager Bomb Cupcakes.

Hochiak! uses agar-agar to make a beautiful Dragon Fruit Jelly.

Try one of these recipes, or let me know if you have a better one!

June 26, 2008

Top Five Tips for Planning a Vegan Wedding

Planning a vegan wedding can put you in a hyper control-freak mode that would make participants on the show Bridezillas look cool, calm, and collected next to the new hybrid—veganzilla. OK, maybe that's just what it's doing to me.

In addition to the normal stresses, planning a vegan wedding means you have to pay extra attention to every detail. Many people involved in your planning process aren't vegan and may not be as knowledgeable about what is acceptable, so it's often up to the bride and groom to be on patrol. Is the trim on that tablecloth silk or satin? Are those real pearls on my veil? Is the fondant vegan? And the little nonvegan surprises can pop up everywhere.

Food can be, by far, the most difficult thing to make vegan, and it can be even more difficult to get your parents, and your wedding planner, and your caterer on board with the idea. But just because it's difficult doesn't mean you shouldn't do it, and I've compiled some tips to help you out.

Here are five tips that will help you navigate your way through planning a vegan wedding menu:

1. Stick to Your Guns: Be up front with everyone about your plan to avoid animal products, and let everyone know exactly what those products are! Your caterer may not know that you've been vegan since you were 2 and might try to talk you into a little something for all the meat-eaters. If you make it clear from the start that you're not going to budge, then you can avoid a few awkward exchanges. Trust me.

2. Come Armed With Recipes: Many people don't have the luxury of an all-vegan caterer in their city. This means you'll have to call up caterers that serve animal products and see if they'll be willing to do an all-vegan menu for you. Be prepared with menu suggestions. Use our guide, or look at the VegNews 2008 feature on vegan weddings for a little inspiration.

3. Don't Settle: Doesn't this sound amazing: marinated vegetables, grilled vegetables, raw vegetables, and stuffed vegetables. Not! Sorry, I had to bust out an old-school "not" for this one. Unless you really, really like vegetables, don't settle for a menu like this, because you don't have to. There are endless possibilities for a gourmet vegan meal, so find a caterer who is willing to be creative.

4. Pour Some Sugar on Me: Your wedding cake is another area where you might have to go to a traditional bakery and ask it to create a vegan cake for you. You'll be surprised by the number of bakeries that will do this. Or you can skip all the calls and use Jolinda's guide to vegan wedding cakes.

5. DIY: The easiest way to make sure you're getting exactly what you want is to make it yourself. Again, our vegan wedding menus feature includes recipes for all budgets and tastes, and most are already scaled to serve large crowds. Almost any vegan cake recipe can be turned into a wedding cake. Just take a decorating class at a local bakery or college, and you'll be set. Also, be sure to ask your reception venue if self-catering is allowed (I believe it may be an insurance or health code issue for many places).

Hope this helps. Let me know if anyone has other tips to add!

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