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July 23, 2007

'Portobellos, Chanterelles--No, I Like Shiitake'

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Fritters often seem like a bit of a snooze to me, but after trying corn-and-shiitake fritters based on a recipe I found in Food and Wine , I have completely changed my mind. The beauty of the recipe comes from the corn purée that is stirred into the batter. The combination of the purée and whole kernels leads to a strong corn flavor that perfectly complements the smokiness of the sautéed shiitakes and the sweetness of the onion.

The recipe below calls for fresh corn, but I have to admit that I used canned corn, and it was still delicious. I also topped mine with a dab of guacamole, sliced red onion, and cilantro, but the fritters are just as good on their own.

I'll leave you with a catchy rap I once heard that always pops into my head when I think about shiitake mushrooms. It went a little something like this: "My name is Robin Blake. My name is Robin Blake. I like to drink sake, or is it called sake? Portobellos, chanterelles…no, I like shiitake." (Many more food raps from my wonderful friends to come. I promise.)

Corn-and-Shiitake Fritters

3 ears of corn, shucked and kernels removed
Egg replacer equivalent to 1 egg (I used Ener-G brand)
1/4 cup soy milk
1/2 cup plus 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil
3 large shiitake mushrooms (2 ounces), stems discarded and caps cut into 1/2-inch dice
1/4 cup diced sweet onion
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 tsp. baking powder
1 1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. black pepper

• Place half of the corn kernels into a blender. Scrape the pulp from the cobs into the blender. Add the egg replacer and soy milk. Purée until smooth.

• In a large nonstick skillet, heat the 1 Tbsp. of oil. Add the shiitakes and onion and cook over high heat, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add the remaining corn and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Transfer to a plate and place in the freezer for about 5 minutes, until no longer hot.

• In a bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, salt, and pepper. Stir in the purée, and then fold in the cooled corn mixture.

• Wipe out the skillet. Add the remaining 1/2 cup of oil and heat over medium-high heat. When hot, add 8 level, 1/4-cup mounds of batter to the skillet and spread each to a 1/2-inch thickness. Fry, turning once, until golden and crusty, about 4 minutes. Drain on paper towels and serve warm.

• Garnish with red onion, cilantro, lime, or guacamole, if desired.

Makes 4 servings




July 27, 2007

The Chile Relleno: Oh So Ugly, But Oh So Good

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Chile rellenos are probably the hardest food on the planet to take a good picture of. Honestly, they don't even look that good in person. They are often deflated, with soy cheese oozing out the side, and very soft because they've been cooked three times, but that is exactly what makes them taste oh so good.

This had to be a Saturday night meal for me because the recipe was time-consuming — not difficult, just long. I really tried to make chile rellenos that would hold their shape — and avoid the deflated, oozing blob problem I've had in the past — so I added a mashed potato mixture to the filling. It definitely helped with the taste but didn't make the peppers look much better.

I tried different plating techniques, but fancy presentation and adding the roasted red-pepper sauce in different ways didn't make them look any better. I know pepper on top of pepper might sound too spicy, but it wasn't, and the flavors complemented each other perfectly. Again, great taste, but disappointing in the looks department.

This is a little dramatic, but perfecting my chile relleno recipe has long been one of my goals in life (along with meeting Kobe Bryant). With this one pretty darn close to perfect, I guess I can start working on those photographs…

Chile Rellenos

For the Peppers:

4 poblano peppers

•Roast the peppers until the skin is black and charred. (To do so, either place on a baking sheet and roast under the broiler or roast over an open flame. Tip: Place each charred pepper in a plastic bag, being sure to close the bag after each is added. This will trap the heat, making the peppers easier to peel. Leave all 4 peppers in the bag for 4 to 5 minutes.)

•When cool enough to handle, gently remove the skin from each pepper. Cut a 1- to 2-inch incision lengthwise into each pepper and remove all the seeds, being careful not to tear the skin.

For the Filling:

1 large baking potato, cut into 1-inch dice
1 Tbsp. olive oil
1/4 cup diced white onion
1 clove garlic, minced
Juice of 1/2 lime
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 1/2 cups shredded soy cheese (try Follow Your Heart "mozzarella")

•Add the diced potatoes to a large pot, fill with enough water to cover, and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook for 15 to 20 minutes, or until tender. Drain and place in a large mixing bowl.

• Add the olive oil to a sauté pan and place over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes, until just cooked. Add to the boiled potatoes along with the lime juice, salt, and pepper. Mash thoroughly, leaving no large chunks. Fold in the shredded "cheese."

For the Sauce:

1 Tbsp. olive oil
1/4 cup diced white onion
1 clove garlic, minced
8 oz. roasted red peppers
1/4 cup water
Salt and pepper, to taste

•Heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onions, garlic, and roasted red peppers. Sauté for about 5 minutes. (Tip: Use jarred red peppers and save yourself the trouble of having to roast those too. Just be sure to drain the liquid before adding the peppers to the pan.)

•Place the entire mixture in a blender and add the water. Blend until smooth. Pour back into the pan and season with salt and pepper.

To Assemble:

1 qt. vegetable oil for frying
1 cup baking mix (try Bisquick)
1/2 cup soy milk
Egg replacer equivalent to 1 egg (try Ener-G brand)
1/2 cup all-purpose flour for coating
Cilantro for garnish (optional)

•Heat the vegetable oil in a large pot until it reaches 365°F. Preheat the oven to 350°F.

•Carefully fill each pepper with just enough of the potato and cheese mixture until it is slightly larger than its original size. Close all incisions in the pepper with toothpicks.

•Blend the baking mix, soy milk, and egg replacer in a medium bowl, forming a batter. Coat each pepper in flour and then dip into the batter. Immediately drop each pepper into the vegetable oil and fry until golden brown. Remove and place on a paper towel-lined plate. When all 4 peppers have been fried, place on an ungreased baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes.

• Remove the toothpicks from each pepper, place on a plate seamside-down, and top with the roasted red-pepper sauce. Garnish with cilantro, if desired.

Makes 4 servings





August 17, 2007

Let's Do Brunch

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If, like me, you've paid your dues in the service industry, you've probably spent many Sunday mornings working brunch instead of sitting down to eat it. I've always been a little jealous of people who have the time and funds to do brunch, so last weekend, I created a little feast for myself to make up for all those missed meals.

When prepping for my pity-party feast, I couldn't narrow it down to one item, so I decided to try a few classics. I made French toast topped with fresh strawberries, powdered sugar, and syrup. I grilled hash browns—served scattered and smothered—and mock sausage patties. If you have time, try making your own mock sausage, but if you want to get the food into your stomach as quickly as possible, like me, use a prepackaged "sausage" such as Gimme Lean.

Sitting down to enjoy my meal—with a mimosa in hand—was nice, but it actually made me miss working brunch more than anything. The satisfaction of working so hard on a Sunday morning came from feeling like I had survived a battle—no matter how small. When the doors closed at 3 p.m., I would sit around sharing war stories with my buddies, and all the morning's annoying customers would be forgotten shortly after.

Check out "Making the Transition" for more great brunch ideas.

Vegan French Toast
1 cup soy milk
2 Tbsp. flour
1 Tbsp. nutritional yeast flakes
1 tsp. sugar or sweetener of your choice
1 tsp. vanilla
1/2 tsp. salt
Pinch nutmeg
6 slices whole wheat bread

•Mix all the ingredients (except the bread slices) in a shallow bowl.

•Dip the bread slices into the soy-milk mixture and cook, either on a nonstick griddle until browned on both sides or on a greased cookie sheet in a 400°F oven until golden on both sides, turning once.

Makes 3 servings




August 23, 2007

How to Build a Burger

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The art of building a delicious burger is one that many think they understand but so few have truly mastered. The problem is that we are presented with so many options for a single burger—that means so many ways to go wrong.

The most important step in making a delicious burger is starting with a homemade patty. Sure, Boca's are great when you're in a hurry or craving a classic taste, but if your burger is going to be crowned "The Ultimate Burger," you have to start with a homemade patty. It's equally important to choose toppings that complement the flavor of the patty, instead of just grabbing every old condiment out the door of your refrigerator.

This summer, I threw a Hawaiian luau where everyone was dressed to the nines in leis and grass skirts, and I decided to try out tropical veggie burgers for the occasion. The patties are made from a combination of lentils, brown rice, curry, carrot, ginger, allspice, and more. After each patty was grilled, we topped them with caramelized rings of pineapple and red onion, then finished them off with juicy tomato slices.

I made the patties the day before the luau and stored them in the freezer to harden. The day of the party, all I had to do was spray them with a little bit of cooking oil and toss them on the grill. My guests all told me that this was one of the best veggie burgers they'd ever tried because all the flavors complemented one another. Now that's how you build a good burger.

Tropical Veggie Burgers

For the Patties:

1 cup green lentils, rinsed
1/4 cup brown rice
2 cups vegetable broth
Water sufficient to cover the lentils and rice
Salt, to taste
1 1/2 Tbsp. margarine
1 onion, chopped
4 tsp. curry powder
1/3 cup shredded carrot
2 Tbsp. sauvignon blanc
2 Tbsp. hot sauce
1/2-3/4 cup panko
4 garlic cloves, minced
4 tsp. minced fresh ginger
1/2 tsp. ground allspice
1 tsp. cumin

•Put the lentils and rice in a saucepan with the vegetable broth, adding enough water to cover by about 2 inches. Season with the salt and bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, until the lentils and rice are tender, about 30 minutes. Drain any excess liquid and place the lentils and rice in a large bowl. Let cool.

•Meanwhile, melt the margarine in a skillet over medium heat and sauté the onion until tender, about 4 minutes. Stir in the curry powder and cook until aromatic, about 1 minute.

•Cool slightly and then add to the lentils and rice.

•Stir in the remaining ingredients and season with the salt. Form into patties and place in the refrigerator for 30 minutes to 1 hour.

•Grill for 5 to 10 minutes on each side, until grill marks appear and the patties are hot.

To Assemble:

1 can pineapple rings, drained
1 red onion, thinly sliced (optional)
1 Tbsp. margarine
Kaiser rolls
1 tomato, sliced (optional)
Lettuce
Vegan mayonnaise

•Slice the pineapple rings in half to make a thinner ring. Grill until caramelized, about 5 minutes on each side.

•Grill the onion until lightly browned.

•Spread the margarine over the rolls and grill until lightly browned.

•Place the veggie burgers on the buns and top with the pineapple, onions, tomato, lettuce, and vegan mayonnaise.

Makes 6 to 8 servings





August 24, 2007

Pizza Bianca Surprise

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One of the best feelings in the world is going home—after being stuck at work late on a Friday night—to find freshly baked pizza waiting for you in your apartment. I'm not talking about just any old pizza, but pizza bianca with a homemade dough, enough garlic to kill a vampire, vegan cheese, fancy kalamata olives, and marinated artichoke hearts.

Several sites define pizza bianca as a flat bread topped with only olive oil and salt, while others say the most common toppings are garlic, olive oil, some type of cheese, and herbs. I will choose to believe the second definition.

On this particular Friday night, the person doing the surprising was my boyfriend. I would say he is a bit of a pizza expert—still using the same pizza pans he received at the age of 12 and always making fresh dough using a recipe taught to him by his grandmother. She would stay up late and make fresh pizzas for her husband—long after the children had gone to sleep—as a Depression-era special treat just for the adults.

She eventually passed her recipe on to my boyfriend, who enjoyed spending time in the kitchen and learning how to cook from his grandmother when he wasn't busy with one of his many bands or general hell-raising. His cooking has definitely come a long way since then, when he would surprise his dad with a meal that consisted of only chili-cheese fries. Now he surprises me with delicious pizza.

Pizza Bianca

For the Dough:

1 1/2 tsp. active dry yeast
1/4 cup lukewarm water (105°F)
1/2 cup cold water
1 1/2 Tbsp. olive oil
3/4 tsp. salt
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

•Mix the yeast with the lukewarm water in a large bowl and let stand for 10 minutes.

•Stir in the cold water, oil, salt, and 1/2 cup of the flour. Stir in the remaining flour 1/2 cup at a time.

•Knead the dough for 8 to 10 minutes, then cover with a towel and let rest for 15 minutes.

•Divide the dough into 2 portions. Knead briefly, then shape into 2 balls. Place each in a separate bowl, cover, and let rest for 1 hour.

To Assemble:

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
10 cloves minced garlic
1 pkg. shredded vegan cheese (try Follow Your Heart's "mozzarella")
1/4 cup sliced onion
1/4 cup sliced kalamata olives
1/4 cup quartered artichoke hearts*
Salt and pepper, to taste

•While the dough is rising, combine the olive oil with the garlic and let sit.

•When the dough is ready, press each ball into a 10- to 12-inch pizza pan, shaping to your desired thickness. Top each with 1/2 the olive oil and garlic mixture.

•Sprinkle 1/2 the "cheese" onto each pizza, using less if you prefer. Top with the onions, olives, and artichokes.

•Bake at 500°F for 8 to 9 minutes. Place under the broiler for the last 30 seconds to melt the "cheese."

Makes 2 pizzas

*Note: To save time, try using marinated canned or jarred artichoke hearts.


August 30, 2007

The Plantain: Starchy, Sweet, Oily Goodness

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My 2006 visit to Ghana sparked what was definitely my greatest food obsession of last year—plantains. They can be starchy, sweet, salty, oily goodness all at the same time.

Outside the Kakum rain forest, I bought bags of thinly sliced plantains fried into salty chips. In restaurants, I would eat fried plantains with "red-red"—black-eyed peas served in a spicy, oily tomato sauce—more than once a day. And on bus rides across the country, I would see roadside stands selling whole roasted plantains. I thought it looked easy enough.

When I returned to the U.S., I tried grilling a whole bright-green plantain after removing the skin. If you have ever cooked a plantain, you know that this obviously did not work. The plantain dried out and became hard as a rock because it was nowhere near ripe.

I had better luck with my plantains after doing a little research. I found that preparation can be as simple and healthy as boiling a whole unpeeled plantain for 15 to 20 minutes or as sinful as deep-frying diagonally sliced ripe plantains. "Kelewele" is a spicy fried plantain dish that I tried in Ghana and was lucky enough to find a recipe for when I returned to the U.S. I ate this with what was my attempt at red-red, and they tasted just as I remembered.

Kelewele (Spicy Fried Plantains)

Oil for frying
4 ripe plantains, peeled and sliced into 1/2-inch-thick rounds
4 tsp. lemon juice
4 tsp. ground ginger
4 tsp. cayenne pepper

•Heat 1/4 inch of oil in a heavy skillet over medium heat.

•In a bowl, combine the plantains and lemon juice, stirring carefully to moisten.

•In a separate bowl, combine the ginger and pepper.

•Roll the plantains in the spice mixture and fry until crisp and golden.

Makes 6 to 8 servings




August 31, 2007

Oven Roasted Cob

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This week, I took time to drive out to my local farmers' market to take advantage of all the great vegetables that are currently in season, and the corn on the cob immediately caught my eye. I love corn on the cob, but shucking can be such a pain. Actually, I think it's just the word "shucking" I don't like. It sounds so strange.

I overcame my hesitation because the corn made me think of my little cat, Pierre, whom I like to call The Cobbler. He loses his mind when we have fresh corn in the house and always tries to steal old cobs out of the trash.

To me, the perfect way to cook corn is on a grill, but there's no way I can fit a grill on my tiny fire escape—and yeah, I guess it's a safety hazard. So, I decided that oven roasting the corn in the husks would be the best way to get a full corn flavor and avoid shucking! Once roasted, the husks are much easier to peel away from the corn. I topped the roasted corn with a cilantro-lime blend, but you can top it with anything from just salt to roasted red peppers to soy sauce.



Oven Roasted Cilantro-Lime Corn on the Cob

6 ears fresh corn
1/2 cup soy margarine
1/4 cup chopped cilantro leaves
1 lime, zested and juiced
2 tsp. salt
3/4 tsp. cayenne pepper

•Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the corn husks directly on the oven rack and roast for 30 minutes, or until soft.

•In a mixing bowl, use a rubber spatula to blend the soy margarine with the cilantro, lime zest and juice, salt, and cayenne. Refrigerate if not using immediately.

•When the corn is cool enough to handle, peel down the husks without removing—they can be used as a handle when eating. Apply 1 to 2 Tbsp. of the cilantro-lime mixture to each cob and enjoy.

Makes 6 servings




September 5, 2007

New Awlins Gumbo

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New Orleans is famous for many reasons: the architecture of the French Quarter, the destruction done by Hurricane Katrina, the massive party known as Mardi Gras, the historic plantations, the unstoppable Saints, and the Cajun and Creole cuisine native to the region.

Because I was born there, the city looks a little different to me. My New Orleans looks more like this: levees to roll down, sno-balls on a hot day, humidity that you could eat with a spoon, visits with my mamère and papère, powdered sugar storms from biting into a beignet, and huge pots of jambalaya, gumbo, and red beans and rice on my mom's stove. I see New Awlins as a full-flavored city with just a hint of crazy in the air—I'm pretty sure that comes from the humidity.

When I found out that my friend Christine's birthday party would be today, I jumped at the chance to make gumbo for the event in order to celebrate her Cajun heritage and mine. The delicious gumbo recipe was supplied by Christine's own Cajun mama.

It starts out like any Cajun dish, with a dark roux and the holy trinity—onion, bell pepper, and celery—as the base. If you're from New Orleans, these are two things you are born knowing how to make. You simmer these in water, vegetable stock, okra, "chicken" strips, and spices, and then serve over white rice. The result is a deep, rich flavor with just enough spice. Just like New Orleans.

Happy birthday, Christine! And for more on vegan Cajun, check out this great resource.

Carol's Louisiana Gumbo

4 cups water
1 cup roux*
3 cups chopped onion
1 bell pepper, chopped
2 stalks celery, chopped
2 cloves fresh garlic
1 large can vegetable broth
Salt, black pepper, and red pepper, to taste
Cajun seasoning, to taste
1 pkg. frozen chopped okra
1 lb. vegan chicken, chopped (optional)
1/2 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1/2 cup chopped green onion tops
Cooked rice

•Bring the water to a boil in a large pot. Add the roux and boil for 30 minutes.

•Add the onion, bell pepper, and celery. Cook until softened. Add the garlic, broth, salt, black pepper, red pepper, and Cajun seasoning. Bring to a boil and cook for 5 minutes.

•Lower the heat and simmer for 1 hour. Add the okra and cook for an additional hour. Add the vegan chicken and cook for 30 minutes.

•Stir in the parsley and green onion tops 15 minutes before serving. Serve over the cooked rice.

Makes 4 to 6 servings

*Note: For the roux, combine equal parts of flour and oil in a heavy pot over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring constantly, for 30 minutes, or until chocolate brown, being careful not to burn. (If it does burn, you’ll have to throw it out and start over.)


September 10, 2007

Football Sunday's 'Man Meal'

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I could feel myself gaining weight as the vegetable oil was heating on my stove Sunday afternoon. Not one bit of food had yet touched my lips, but I could already feel it on my thighs.

It was the first Sunday of the football season, so we had to kick it off the right way in my house—bad food and drinks all day, along with about 10 hours of football. Oh, good times.

The bad foods—and by "bad" I mean delicious but dangerously fattening—of choice were potato skins and nachos. The deep-fried skins were topped with Follow Your Heart "cheddar cheese," soy bacon bits, and scallions. The nachos were made from homemade deep-fried corn tortillas, more Follow Your Heart "cheddar cheese," refried beans, jalapeños, and guacamole.

The deep-fried feast made me feel like I was at any neighborhood sports bar, rooting on my boyfriend's beloved Browns. They didn't win this week, and neither did my Saints, but our football-obsessed Sunday was still fun anyway—and there is always next week.

For more game-day snacks, check out these great recipes fit for even a Super Bowl feast.

Game-Day Potato Skins

6 potatoes
1 cup vegetable oil
8 oz. shredded vegan cheddar cheese (try Follow Your Heart brand)
1/8 cup soy bacon bits (try Bac-Os)
4 Tbsp. thinly sliced scallions
Soy sour cream (optional)

•Preheat the oven to 375°F. Lightly grease a 9x13-inch baking pan.

•Pierce the potatoes with a fork and microwave on high until soft, approximately 10 to 12 minutes.

•Remove from the microwave and cut in half vertically. Scoop out the inside, leaving a 1/4-inch-thick shell.

•Heat the oil to 365°F in a deep fryer or a deep saucepan. Fry the potato shells for 5 minutes. Remove and drain on paper towels.

•Fill the potato shells with the "cheese" and soy bacon bits. Arrange on the prepared baking pan and bake for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the "cheese" has melted.

•Top with the sliced scallions and the soy sour cream, if desired.

Makes 6 servings


September 13, 2007

Poor Man's Pho

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Many vegetarians have one meal they miss more than all others. I am very surprised to find that for many, that meal is pho.

Pho—pronounced "fuh"—is a traditional Vietnamese rice noodle soup that almost always contains thinly sliced strips of beef in a clear beef broth—a meal that is seemingly difficult to make into a tasty vegan version.

People reminisce about the comforting layered flavors, the strong aroma of the broth (which usually contains cinnamon, star anise, and ginger), and the variety of garnishes that you add at the table. Just a few of the standard options are mint, cilantro, basil, lemon, lime, bean sprouts, and chili peppers.

Luckily, the VRG has posted a popular recipe for vegetarian pho bo that contains a rich broth. The broth, made from charred ginger to enhance the flavor, acted as the perfect base for my version of pho that I like to call "Poor Man's Pho." It's one of those "I'm going to make do with whatever random vegetables I have in my refrigerator right now" kind of meals.

I used VRG's Vegetarian Vietnamese broth as a start, then substituted seitan for tofu and spinach for the cabbage and finished the soup off by adding carrots and shiitake mushrooms. Of course, I piled on the Sriracha, because no pho is complete without it. The beauty of this soup is that the broth and the rice noodles are the key ingredients, so from there you can add what you like.

Now, when I eat a bowl of this delicious pho, I can close my eyes and imagine myself on the bustling streets of a Vietnamese city and be happy to know that there are vegans out there who are no longer missing their favorite meal.

October 2, 2007

Creamy Mushroom Soup

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I have long wanted to find a recipe for a creamy mushroom soup that's not loaded with margarine, because it tends to overpower the flavor of the mushrooms. I found this recipe, and after making a few tweaks I was able to reach the consistency and flavor I was looking for.

No, it's definitely not pretty. After blending the soup, it ended up a shade of grayish brown, but it definitely tastes good.






Creamy Mushroom Soup

2 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, diced
1 yellow onion, diced
2 Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and diced
10 button mushrooms, diced
6-8 baby portobello mushrooms, sliced
1/4 cup white wine
4 cups plain unsweetened soy milk
Salt and pepper, to taste
3 tsp. sweet white miso
Finely minced fresh parsley for garnish

•Heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat and sauté the garlic and onions for 2 to 3 minutes.

•Stir in the potatoes and mushrooms and sauté for an additional 2 to 3 minutes.

•Add the wine, soy milk, salt, and pepper. Cover and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and cook for 1 hour.

•Pour the soup into a blender, or use a hand blender, and blend until creamy, then add back to the pot.

•Spoon a small amount of the soup into a bowl and dissolve the miso in it. Stir back into the soup and cook over very low heat, uncovered, for 3 to 4 minutes to activate the enzymes in the miso.

•Season with salt and pepper and serve garnished with fresh parsley.

Makes 4 to 5 servings


November 5, 2007

Smothered and Stuffed Cannelloni

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I agree with chef Bonnie Tees that stir-fries are one of the most poorly prepared (and, in my opinion, over prepared) vegetarian menu items out there. If I have to eat another bland burrito, stir-fry, or plate of spaghetti with marinara, so help me God…

With that said, it's nice that in today's food world, vegetarian options have finally expanded beyond the three fallback items above. Restaurants around the world are now more willing to take chances with vegetarian dishes—even if that chance is just an updated version of an old classic.

Chef Bonnie, from Bonnys in Montréal, was sweet enough to share this recipe for cannelloni—the classic tube-shaped pasta that is often stuffed with a creamy filling before being covered in tomato sauce and baked.

I opted to add extra sauce to my "cannelloni" (I had to follow Bonnie's advice and use rolled lasagne sheets because I couldn't find cannelloni), which I learned is now acceptable because The New York Times says so. The result was a comforting dish that surprisingly had even more flavor than I had expected from the minimal ingredients.

Tofu and Spinach-Stuffed Cannelloni With Tomato Sauce

For the Tomato Sauce:

1 28-oz. #3 can whole tomatoes, blended
1 8-oz. can tomato paste
1 Tbsp. maple syrup
2 bay leaves
2 tsp. basil
1/4 tsp. cayenne
1/4 cup barley or rice miso

•Bring all the ingredients to a boil in a large saucepan and simmer for 30 minutes.

For the Cannelloni:

1 bunch spinach, washed
1 medium onion, diced
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 block firm tofu, crumbled in a food processor
2 tsp. tarragon
1 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
1 tsp. umeboshi vinegar
8 cooked cannelloni noodles

•Scald the spinach in boiling water. Let sit for 5 minutes, then drain well and chop.

•Sauté the onions and garlic. Add the spinach and tofu and mix well.

•Add the tarragon, salt, nutmeg, and umeboshi vinegar, mixing well.

•Fill the cooked noodles with the spinach-tofu mixture.

•Place the stuffed cannelloni in a single layer in an oiled baking dish. Top with the prepared tomato sauce and cover with foil. Bake at 350°F for 45 minutes. Uncover and bake until browned.

Note: You can cook lasagne noodles and cut them in half to use in place of the cannelloni noodles.

Makes 8 cannelloni



November 8, 2007

Stuffed Acorn Squash for Your Holiday Feast

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All the overachievers of the world are already preparing for their big Thanksgiving dinner—this one's for you guys. I, on the other hand, will probably not walk into a grocery store to start my shopping until the day before. Still unable to shake the procrastination bug.

Those of you who are already preparing and are in the mood for more than just a faux turkey for Thanksgiving—or worse, just a medley of side dishes—stuffed squash is a festive alternative.

The adorable little flower-shaped squash is baked until the flesh is bubbly, browned, and tender. The center is then loaded with a mixture of nuts, herbs, and the oh-so-healthy quinoa. If this filling seems a little too "crunchy" for you, try one of the many other unique holiday entrées in the guide to celebrating a vegetarian holiday.

Festive Acorn Squash

1-2 tsp. melted margarine
2 acorn squash, cut in half and seeds removed
1 cup quinoa, rinsed
2 cups vegetable broth
1/4 cup minced Vidalia onion
2 Tbsp. minced fresh parsley
1/4 cup toasted pecans
1/4 cup raisins
2 Tbsp. high-quality balsamic vinegar
4 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper, to taste

•Spread the margarine on the cut side of the squash. Place face down onto a baking sheet and bake at 400°F for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the flesh is soft.

•While the squash is baking, combine the quinoa and broth in a pot and bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat, cover, and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the liquid is absorbed. Remove from the heat.

•Toss the remaining ingredients into the quinoa. Season to taste.

•Gently spoon the quinoa mixture into the squash halves.

Makes 3 to 4 servings


November 9, 2007

The Art of Soba

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Making soba, the popular Japanese buckwheat noodle, is definitely an art form that takes great skill and much time to perfect. The high buckwheat content can make this a tricky little—er, big—dough to work with. The work must all be done by hand, which can be uber time-consuming but also great fun, if that's what you're into—and I am.

After using the proper techniques to mix the flour and water—you have to know how to work it—the dough must be rolled out into a circle and then rolled out again into a rectangle that's 1.5 millimeters thick. Of course, this requires a huge rolling pin, and then cutting the dough requires a huge knife. Getting the precise measurements correct and knowing how to work the dough can be difficult, unless you're a soba master—and I am not.

It's shameful, I know, but that is why I stick to store-bought noodles that can easily be cooked in minutes. Eating the healthy and tasty noodles makes me feel balanced and energized. I know it sounds crazy and hippyish, but it's true.

Soba can be enjoyed hot or cold; both ways are good. The Spicy Soba Noodles With Shiitakes and Cabbage pictured here is right in the middle, with cold noodles tossed in a warm sauce. Pair this with a little unfiltered sake—I like to say "sake to me"—and you'll have a little Japanese feast.

For more info on the art of soba, check out these great resources: FXCuisine.com, Soba Advice, Wikipedia, and Japan-Guide.com.

November 14, 2007

What to Do With the King of Mushrooms

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The chatter will be kept to a minimum in this entry because the recipe itself is quite long. It's not difficult or all that time-consuming—it just needs a lengthy explanation.

On Gourmet magazine's site, I found an interesting recipe by David Chang that pairs sautéed mushrooms with a pistachio purée. I made just a few changes to his recipe—mostly just to make it easier—without greatly altering the main components of the dish. Enjoy.




King Oyster Mushrooms With Pistachio Purée

For the Pistachio Purée:

5 1/2 cups water
1 cup shelled roasted pistachios
1/4 cup mirin
1/4 cup instant vegan dashi powder

•Bring 2 cups of the water to a boil in a small saucepan and cook the pistachios for 2 minutes. Drain and transfer to a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking process. Drain again and peel off the skins.

•Bring the mirin, the dashi, and 3 cups of the water to a boil in a small saucepan, stirring until the dashi is dissolved. Add the peeled pistachios and simmer, stirring occasionally, until very tender, about 1 hour. Drain. Reserve 1/3 cup of the pistachios for garnish.

•Purée the remaining pistachios with the remaining 1/2 cup water in a blender into a very smooth but thick paste.

For the Radishes:

8 radishes
1 Tbsp. sugar
1 Tbsp. salt

•Cut each radish into 6 wedges. Toss with the sugar and salt in a bowl until the sugar and salt are dissolved.

For the Mushrooms:

1 1/2 lbs. king oyster mushrooms
6-7 Tbsp. canola oil, divided
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 Tbsp. margarine
2 garlic cloves, smashed
3 Tbsp. sherry vinegar

•Trim the oyster mushrooms, keeping the stems intact, and cut lengthwise into 1/4-inch-thick slices.

•Sauté the mushrooms in 5 or 6 batches: Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until hot. Add enough mushrooms to cover the skillet in 1 layer, then sprinkle with salt and pepper. Sauté, turning once, until golden on the edges, about 2 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a bowl. Repeat until all the mushrooms are sautéed.

•Return the mushrooms to the skillet, adding the margarine and garlic. Once the margarine is melted, add the vinegar and bring to a boil, stirring, until the liquid is evaporated. Remove from the heat and discard the garlic.

To Assemble:

Microgreens or mesclun
Flaky sea salt
Pistachio oil (optional)

•Divide the pistachio purée among plates and top with the oyster mushrooms. Place radish wedges around the oyster mushrooms. Sprinkle with greens, reserved pistachios, sea salt, and pistachio oil, if using.


November 28, 2007

Smothered in Espagnole Sauce

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I couldn't resist the urge to try Sublime's mushroom stroganoff when I noticed that the recipe calls for espagnole sauce and contains all my favorite mushrooms—cremini, oyster, and shiitake.

Espagnole is a classic brown sauce, typically made from a dark roux, a brown stock, and tomato sauce. The French master sauce is often used as a base for other sauces, such as Madeira and bordelaise, and has a super-rich flavor whether it's on its own or just a base. The richness is exactly why I was happy to see that this recipe asks you to practically smother the mushrooms in the espagnole sauce—I can't get enough.

My local Whole Foods had all the ingredients for the espagnole, but I must admit that making it on your own can be rather labor intensive. If that is out of the question for you, just use a high-quality tomato sauce for this stroganoff instead.

Wild Mushroom Stroganoff
by Sublime Restaurant

1 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
1 medium diced yellow onion
1 cup quartered cremini mushrooms
1 cup quartered shiitake mushrooms
1 cup quartered oyster mushrooms
1 Tbsp. whole-wheat pastry flour
4 cups espagnole sauce (see recipe below)
1/2 cup soy sour cream
1 Tbsp. ground mustard
Cooked pasta of your choice
4 Tbsp. chopped parsley

•Heat the oil and sauté the onion and mushrooms. Sprinkle in the flour and cook to a paste. Add the espagnole sauce and cook at a slow simmer for 20 minutes. Mix the soy sour cream and mustard together. Pour into the sauce and heat throughout.

•Serve over cooked pasta of your choice, and garnish with the parsley.

Makes 4 servings

Espagnole

1 small carrot, chopped
1 medium white onion, chopped
1/4 cup margarine
1/4 cup flour
4 cups hot vegetable stock, preferably vegan beef flavor
1/4 cup canned tomato purée
2 large garlic cloves, chopped
1 celery rib, chopped
1/2 tsp. whole black peppercorns
1 bay leaf

•In a heavy saucepan over medium heat, cook the carrot and onion in the margarine until golden. Add the flour and whisk to form a roux. Continue to cook until the roux is medium brown.

•While whisking, add the hot stock, being sure to prevent lumps. Add the tomato purée, garlic, celery, peppercorns, and bay leaf.

•Bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, until reduced to 3 cups, stirring frequently.

•Remove the solids from the sauce before serving.

Note: The sauce can be frozen in ice cube trays to use as a quick addition to recipes.

Makes 3 cups


December 6, 2007

Easy Vegan Pancakes

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Life often delivers pleasant little surprises, and for me they often come in the form of food. I recently found a vegan breakfast bar at a local grocery store, complete with biscuits, gravy, and tofu scramble—I had to pinch myself to make sure I was awake. Other times, it happens when I find unexpectedly vegan items, such as the Trader Joe's candy cane Oreo-type cookies.

You can experience this "Oh my god, I can't believe that's vegan" joy—over and over again—by checking out the list of accidentally vegan foods. These are brands you recognize and items you see in almost every grocery store, and you probably just assumed that they had eggs, dairy, or something else in them.

One of the highlights for me was finding Bisquick on that list, because vegan pancakes can be kinda hard to come by in restaurants, and for some reason I can't seem to master making them from scratch.

My friend Joel, who happens to be obsessed with SMILES fries, says that I am "against processed foods," but it's more accurate to say that I don't like to eat them all the time. In moderation, they're just fine. And if you want foolproof pancakes, just like those from a local diner, then this is the perfect time.

Easy Pancakes

2 cups original Bisquick mix
1 cup soy milk
Egg replacer equivalent to 2 eggs (try Ener-G brand)

•Stir together all the ingredients until blended.

•Pour 1/4 cupfuls onto a hot, greased griddle.

•Cook until the edges are dry. Flip, then cook until golden.

•Garnish with your favorite toppings.

Makes 10 small cakes


December 14, 2007

Four-Way Cincinnati Chili

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Warning! Warning! This is definitely not your typical chili recipe. If you're dead-set in your chili-making ways—and they don't include the use of cocoa or cinnamon—this may not be the recipe for you.

I've been hearing praises about this sauce-like chili from certain friends and family, but I was understandably skeptical because it's served on top of spaghetti and includes a variety of spices more commonly found in desserts. And the fun doesn't stop there. You also have to choose which "way" you like your chili by adding one or more of the classic toppings: onion, cheese, oyster crackers, or kidney beans.

I decided that my way is four-way chili, topped with onions and vegan soy cheese (the chili and spaghetti count as the other two ways). Stick with me here, because much to my surprise, the first bite did not leave me gagging. It left me craving more because of the richness and depth of flavor in this unique chili recipe.

My leftovers are destined to become part of a vegan "Coney"—the veggie dog, Cincinnati chili, and soy cheese wonder that's served on sliced bread instead of your traditional hot dog bun. I guess the choice of bread really isn't that surprising, since there's not much about Cincinnati chili that is traditional.

Cincinnati Chili

1 Tbsp. olive oil
1 onion, chopped
1 12-oz. pkg. frozen veggie burger crumbles
1 Tbsp. minced garlic
1 cup tomato sauce
1 cup water
2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
2 Tbsp. chili powder
1/2 tsp. cumin
1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp. paprika
1/2 tsp. ground allspice
1 Tbsp. light brown sugar
1 Tbsp. unsweetened cocoa powder
1 tsp. hot pepper sauce
16 oz. cooked spaghetti
Shredded soy cheese (optional)
Diced white onion (optional)

•Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan and sauté the onions until tender. Mix in the veggie burger crumbles and garlic and cook until the crumbles are no longer frozen.

•Stir in the tomato sauce, water, vinegar, chili powder, cumin, cinnamon, paprika, allspice, light brown sugar, cocoa, and hot sauce.

•Heat over medium-high heat until the mixture begins to boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, or until thickened.

•Serve over the cooked spaghetti and top with soy cheese and/or onions, if desired.


December 24, 2007

Mmm . . . Eggless MacMuffin!

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A little tinge of jealousy arises when I see how easy it is for many people to go out and pick up a quick, made-for-you breakfast at a fast-food restaurant—but I can't say I feel the same about the artery-clogging grease that goes with it.

My response is to treat myself to the distant relative of the oh-so-popular McMuffin—the Eggless MacMuffin. This breakfast sandwich is easy to make, undeniably delicious, and healthier.

Slice up the tofu as thick as you like—thinner pieces result in a texture and appearance closer to a fried egg. Place it on your favorite sandwich bread—toast, English muffin, biscuit, or bagel—and top with your favorite condiments and spreads. I must admit that I sometimes take away the "healthier for you" angle this sandwich has going for it by slathering on an almost coma-inducing amount of Vegenaise. Other times I do opt for guacamole—kind of high in fat but much better for you. You could try one of these or both or get really crazy and throw on some hot sauce too!

Eggless MacMuffin

1/2 cup cornmeal
1 tsp. black pepper
Salt, to taste
1 tsp. garlic powder
1/2 tsp. red pepper flakes (optional)
1 block extra-firm tofu, sliced into desired thickness (try 1/4 inch)
Splash of Bragg's Liquid Aminos or soy sauce
Vegan breakfast sausage rounds
Vegenaise (optional)
Guacamole (optional)
Hot sauce (optional)
4 English muffins or mini bagels, toasted

•In a shallow bowl, combine the cornmeal, black pepper, salt, garlic powder, and red pepper flakes, if using.

•Season the tofu with the liquid aminos. Toss to coat in the cornmeal mixture.

•Cook in a lightly oiled skillet over medium-low heat. (This no-stick salt trick is helpful!) Cook on both sides until browned.

•Heat the vegan breakfast sausages according to the package directions.

•Assemble by spreading Vegenaise, guacamole, or hot sauce on the insides of the bagels or English muffins. Top with the "sausage" and fried "egg."

Makes 4 servings


December 27, 2007

Slow-Cooked Collards Over Polenta Cakes

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Is anyone else in shock that both Christmas and Hanukkah have come and gone, Kwanzaa is here, and the new year is just days away? To save time during the busy—and food-focused—holiday season, I decided to go for a multitasking recipe for today's entry.

Collard greens are a Kwanzaa and New Year's Day staple in many households, especially in the South, and definitely fit the "will work for more than one holiday" requirement. You could make these for Kwanzaa and serve the leftovers on New Year's Day—if there are any.

Serving the soft greens over fried polenta cakes makes the usual side dish more of a main course. And by adding a large helping of vegan Hoppin' John on the side, you'll have a multitasking meal, not just one recipe.

Slow-Cooked Collards Over Polenta Cakes

For the Collards:

1 large bunch collard greens
1 1/2 Tbsp. olive oil
1/2 onion, sliced
1 garlic clove, minced
1 chipotle chili pepper
2 bay leaves
1 quart vegetable broth
1 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar
1 tsp. sugar
Salt and ground black pepper, to taste

•To prepare the greens, cut away the tough stalks and stems and discard any leaves that are bruised or yellow. Wash the collards two or three times thoroughly to remove the grit and chop into large pieces.

•Place a large pot over medium heat and add the olive oil. Add the onion, garlic, chipotle and bay leaves. Cook until the onions are soft and starting to brown, about 8 to 10 minutes. Pack in the greens, pushing them down into the pot. Add the broth, vinegar, and sugar. Bring to a boil, turning the greens over occasionally with a wooden spoon as they wilt. Lower to a simmer, cover, and let cook for 45 minutes.

•Season with salt and pepper and cook, covered, for 15 more minutes.

•Remove the bay leaves and chipotle, and set aside.

For the Polenta:

4 cups low-sodium canned vegetable broth
1 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. ground white pepper (plus more, to taste)
1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper
1 cup instant polenta
2 Tbsp. nutritional yeast flakes
Flour for dredging
1/4 cup olive oil

•Grease a half-sheet pan (about 12 by 17 inches) with nonstick spray, line it with parchment paper, and grease the parchment paper. Set aside.

•Bring the broth, salt, white pepper, and cayenne to a boil in a medium saucepan over high heat. Gradually pour in the polenta and nutritional yeast flakes while whisking constantly. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook, stirring constantly, until the polenta is thick, about 5 minutes.

•Spread the polenta in an even layer about 1/2-inch thick in the prepared pan and refrigerate until set and firm, at least 1 hour.

•When firm, turn the polenta out onto a clean cutting board. Using a 1 1/2-inch round or square cutter, cut into small cakes. Put some flour on a plate and season with salt and pepper, to taste. Dredge the cakes in the seasoned flour.

•Heat the olive oil in a large skillet and fry the cakes, in batches, until golden brown, about 3 to 4 minutes per side. Remove from the pan and drain on a paper towel-lined plate.

•Top each cake with some of the collards and serve.


December 28, 2007

Finger Foods for Your New Year's Eve Bash

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To ring in the new year, I will most likely be on a dance floor surrounded by friends and screaming out my countdown to midnight. But that will only be after I have an early evening cocktail party that focuses on finger foods. I have to do something somewhat sophisticated and adult-like before getting crazy later in the night.

A New Year's Eve party is the perfect time to put out a spread of indulgent appetizers, mini entrées, and desserts all at once. There are no hard rules on the rights and wrongs of what to serve on this holiday, so get crazy with it!

Chow.com offers up ideas on creating a Japanese spread focused on mochi or starters such as curried carrot soup served in cute shot glasses. This is also the time to splurge on the bubbly and on specialty cocktails, such as Food Network's champagne punch. You can try the Triple Threat Twinkies or Mushrooms Rockefeller below, or be creative and create your own finger foods.

The point is to be creative and celebrate the way you want. After an often stressful holiday season jammed full of traditions, it's necessary to let your hair down, celebrate, eat, and drink your way.

Triple Threat Twinkies

For the Cake:

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 tsp. baking powder
4 Tbsp. dark chocolate cocoa powder
1/2 tsp. salt
3 Tbsp. egg replacer
1/2 cup margarine, at room temperature
1 cup sugar
Scant 1 cup vanilla soy milk

•Whisk together the flour, baking powder, cocoa powder, salt, and egg replacer.

•In a separate bowl, beat together the margarine and sugar until light and fluffy. Gradually add the soy milk and dry mixture until combined.

•Pour into a prepared Twinkie mold and bake in a preheated 350°F oven for 15 to 20 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the middle of the cakes comes out clean. Remove from the oven and let cool in the pan for 15 minutes. Remove from the pan and cool on a wire rack.

For the Filling:

1/2 cup vegan white chocolate chips
1 Tbsp. soy milk
1 cup confectioners' sugar

•Melt the chips in a double boiler. Whip in the remaining ingredients until smooth.

For the Chocolate Coating:

1/2 cup bittersweet chocolate
1 tsp. soy milk

•Melt the ingredients in a double boiler until smooth.

To Assemble:

Chocolate jimmies (optional)

•Using a pastry bag with a thin tip, pipe the filling into the bottom of the cakes. This should be done in 3 locations throughout the bottom to make sure the frosting is uniform.

•Frost the tops of the cakes with the chocolate coating and top with the jimmies. Let cool.

Makes 8 servings

Mushrooms Rockefeller

1 tsp. extra virgin olive oil
2 Tbsp. minced white onion
6 baby portobello or large button mushrooms, cleaned, stemmed, and minced
1/4 cup frozen spinach, thawed
1 tsp. lemon juice
1/2 tsp. lemon zest
1 1/2 Tbsp. pimiento
Salt and pepper, to taste

•Lightly grease an 8x10-inch pan. Preheat the oven to 375°F.

•In a skillet over medium heat, heat the olive oil. Sauté the onion and mushrooms until soft. Add the spinach, lemon juice and zest, and pimiento and cook for another 2 minutes. Remove from the heat.

•Stuff the mushrooms with the spinach filling and bake for 15 minutes, or until the mushrooms are cooked.


January 2, 2008

NOLA Classic: The Muffuletta

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Having about 30 people, only part of my large family, visit for Christmas brought back memories of the city we're all from—New Orleans. I know I've said it before, but it's nearly impossible to think of the city and not think of food. Cajun and Creole classics typically come to mind first, but there is one New Orleans original recipe with an Italian influence—the Muffuletta.

The often-massive sandwich consists of four main elements and can easily be veganized: a variety of deli slices, cheese, round Italian bread (if you can find it), and, most importantly, the olive salad. The salad is usually made from olives, capers, carrots, celery, and garlic, which combine to create the unique flavor and potent smell of the sandwich.

Unless you want to anger a ragin' Cajun, the sandwich should be served at room temperature. WhatsCookingAmerica.net makes it clear that "it is considered blasphemy to heat the sandwich." For more info on the correct way to prepare the sandwich and to learn about the sandwich's history, check out GumboPages.com or Colorpro.com, to name just a couple.

Vegan Muffulettas

10-oz. jar green olives with pimientos, diced
1/4 cup pitted black olives, chopped
1 Tbsp. capers
1 garlic clove, minced
3 Tbsp. minced carrot
1 large celery stalk, chopped
1-2 tsp. hot sauce
3 Tbsp. olive oil
1 loaf crusty bread, cut in 1/2 lengthwise and some of the filling removed
1 pkg. veggie salami (try Yves brand)
1 pkg. veggie ham (try Yves brand)
1 pkg. veggie mozzarella cheese (try Follow Your Heart brand)
2 firm tomatoes, sliced
1 small red onion, thinly sliced

•In a medium bowl, combine the olives, capers, garlic, carrots, celery, and 1/2 of the hot sauce. Set aside.

•In another bowl, combine the olive oil and remaining hot sauce. Brush on the bottom 1/2 of the bread and fill with the olive mixture. Top with the veggie salami, veggie ham, veggie mozzarella, tomatoes, and onion. Top with the other 1/2 of the bread and cut into 6 to 8 pieces.

Makes 6-8 servings



January 9, 2008

Garlic-Ginger Tofu Stir-Fry

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Like many others, I too have a slight addiction to Chinese takeout. And when my craving hits, only the saltiest and greasiest takeout will do. But there are other times when I'm craving Chinese food and looking for something slightly different. Instead of yearning for the comfort of fast food, I'm seeking more depth from the flavors of my favorite ingredients—a task more easily accomplished if I make the meal at home.

One easy-to-make, and often-used, recipe is my garlic-ginger tofu stir-fry. The sauce contains a few of my favorite ingredients—peppers, garlic, ginger, and soy—and is just thick enough to coat and stick to the ingredients without becoming too gooey. Don't get me wrong—I love the gooey, oily goodness that you sometimes find in fast-food dishes, but this recipe is meant to be a little lighter.

Of course, you can throw in any veggies you'd like and serve over your favorite rice or noodles. Get crazy with it.

Garlic-Ginger Tofu Stir-Fry

1 small Thai pepper, minced
1 tsp. minced ginger
1 garlic clove, minced
1 Tbsp. olive oil
3 Tbsp. soy sauce
1/4 cup water
1 Tbsp. arrowroot powder or cornstarch
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
1 16-oz. pkg. firm tofu, drained and cut into 1x1/2-inch pieces
1 tsp. soy sauce
2 carrots, cut into 2-inch strips
1 red pepper, sliced
1 large bok choy (or 4-5 baby bok choy), cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1/2 medium onion, sliced
1/2 cup yellow squash, sliced into 1/2-inch-thick pieces
Cooked lo mein or soba noodles

•Sauté the minced pepper, ginger, and garlic in the olive oil for