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Ingredients

September 18, 2007

Salt 101

fleur1.jpg

I recently read in What Einstein Told His Cook: Kitchen Science Explained that salt is just, well, salt. All salt is made of sodium chloride, so no matter what part of the world it comes from, or how much you paid for it, at its core, it is the same as the plain old table salt you can buy for 50 cents at your local market.

This may bring you back to that childhood moment when you realized that the "weird" cereal in the bag was exactly the same as the stuff in the colorful box that contains a free toy. The world no longer makes sense, and you wonder, "How could I have been fooled? How does one taste so much better than the other if they're the same? And why would anyone buy the more expensive stuff?" As a child, you probably just said, "Give me more cereal," but stick with me here.

The answer is simple as to why we pay more for something that we know is basically the same as its cheaper, albeit less fancy, cousin—you're buying the complete package, the full experience, not just the main ingredient. With salt, it's not just sodium chloride that affects the taste but also the size and shape of each grain, along with the additives that are native to the salt's region of origin.

So yes, salt is salt, but varieties vary in taste because of factors beyond their main ingredient. Large grains take longer to dissolve and therefore result in a saltier taste. Flakes interact with a larger surface area of your tongue, so they, too, create a saltier taste. Additives ranging from magnesium and potassium to smoke and volcanic clay all have an impact on the taste of the finished product.

Here is a quick review of a few of the most common types of salt used today:

•Table Salt: The most popular refined salt used today. Generally has a fine grain and is often iodized in the U.S., resulting in a slightly metallic taste.

•Kosher Salt: A coarse grain salt used in professional kitchens. Rarely contains additives, and because of the size and shape of the grain, seems to have a "saltier" taste.

•Sea Salt: Typically unrefined salt from an ocean or sea. Often contains trace minerals that affect taste. Available in a variety of sizes, from coarse to extra fine.

•Fleur de Sel: The mother of all salts. Harvested from the top layer of salt evaporation ponds in France and Portugal. Best used as a condiment to finish a dish, not in preparation.

There are hundreds of varieties out there. From Peruvian pink to Cyprus black and from Danish Viking-smoked to Japanese nazuna, the varieties are seemingly endless.

Get crazy with it, and take a step back to that childhood impracticality when you had to have the cereal that came in the colorful box with the "free" prize. The subtle differences in the world of salt are definitely worth the taste.

January 24, 2008

The Basics on Balsamic

The best balsamic vinegar, and some would argue the only true balsamic, comes from the northern region of Italy. Unfermented white grape juice is boiled down to produce the must, which is further reduced and then aged in wooden barrels. The result is a complex vinegar with a sweet and fruity taste, dark color, and syrupy consistency. What I've just described is very different from what you'll find in the average supermarket.

Most supermarkets carry only commercial-grade balsamic, which is mixed with red wine vinegar. It's not as sweet, lighter in color, and thinner. Unfortunately, finding the real deal may not be easy for you. If you're at the store, check the ingredients for the percentage of must; only the true balsamic is 100 percent must, with no vinegar. But driving all over town in search of good vinegar might not be the best approach. Try ordering from sites such as Olive Nation that offer a variety of vinegars aged up to 50 years and costing up to $200!

I am not saying you need to spend that much on a good balsamic—you don't—but splurging just a little can be worth it. The rich complexity of the vinegar makes it perfect for drizzling on ripe strawberries or soy ice cream, and it can even be sipped on its own.

January 30, 2008

Peppercorn Primer

With so many varieties to choose from, it is hard to know which peppercorn is right for you. Now, I know this is keeping many of you awake at night, so I've created a quick guide that covers the basics.

Black pepper is from the unripe berries of the pepper plant. They are cooked and then dried, turning them into the shriveled berries used worldwide. The bite of black pepper is suitable for seasoning in most foods.

White pepper is the seed of the ripened fruit. The fruit is soaked in water, and then the flesh is removed to obtain the seed. White pepper is a little milder than black pepper and is commonly used in light-colored dishes such as mashed potatoes, white sauces, or light-colored soups.

Green pepper is also made from the unripe berries. They are packed in brine or freeze-dried to maintain the green color. Because it's milder than black and white pepper, use green pepper in dishes that require less kick.

•The rare pink peppercorn is the ripe red pepper berry. It isn't a true peppercorn but makes a great complement to a peppercorn blend.

Now that you know the basics, make sure your pepper maintains peak flavor by storing it in an airtight container in a dark location. Also, to achieve optimum flavor, freshly grind your peppercorns using a peppermill.

April 25, 2008

Top Five Spring Ingredients

Spring is finally here, and to me that means short sleeves, long days, too much pollen, and some of my favorite fresh produce. Below is a list of my top five favorite seasonal spring ingredients, and yes, several of them made the cut because I can prepare them on my new grill, which I have become addicted to. For more on seasonal spring produce, check out "Spring Is in the Fare."

1. Vidalia Onions: These are hands down my favorite springtime ingredient because of the way the sweet onions taste when prepared on a grill. I prefer mine well done and slightly black around the edges. But don't worry if you don't have a grill, because you can use Vidalia onions in a tart or a soup or even stuff them with a pilaf.

2. Avocado: Cinco de Mayo is right around the corner, and I can't imagine celebrating without a side of guacamole. But with avocados in season, you don't have to limit their use to just a Tex-Mex accompaniment. Try a chilled avocado soup, blend into a pâté, or use as the filling for a sandwich.

3. New Potatoes: Again, I'll admit that these are on my list of favorite spring ingredients because they are delicious when cooked on a grill. Only a light coating of oil is required to achieve the rich and crunchy crust of well-done potatoes, which gives way to a tender center. I don't even need to list any other ways to prepare because it doesn't get better than that.

4. Artichokes: I love artichokes any way I can get 'em. Steamed, fried, or grilled all work for me, but my favorite preparation is using them in a creamy dip. Maybe it's because I had to go without it for so long when I couldn't find a good vegan recipe? I can't say for sure, but I do know that all changed when I came across Eat Air's artichoke dip recipe.

5. Strawberries: Being from Ponchatoula, Louisiana, the "Strawberry Capital of the World," has created a lifelong love of strawberries for me, and when they're in season, my favorite way to use them is on a strawberry shortcake.

Again, this is just my list. I'd love to know if your list looks a little different.

May 21, 2008

Word of the Week: Miso

White Miso Paste
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I sometimes overlook the fact that although many recipes on the blog contain ingredients or techniques that are common to me, they aren't necessarily common to everyone. Not every reader knows the difference between tempeh and seitan or braising and blanching, so I've decided to start a new "Word of the Week" series of posts to help define and demystify common vegetarian kitchen terms. This week's word is miso.

Miso is a paste that is typically made from fermented soybeans but may also include grains such as rice or barley. There are many different types of miso, which vary according to the type of grain used, the salt content, the length of fermentation, the place of origin, and more.

Most commonly found brands of miso are labeled by their color, with red, yellow, and white being the most common. Typically, the darker the paste, the stronger and saltier the flavor will be. Miso is wonderful for adding more flavor to soup recipes or just making miso soup, and it adds depth to salad dressings, such as vegan Caesar.

Miso is low in fat but contains many trace minerals and a good bit of protein. You can learn more about miso on Wikipedia or just pick some up at your local grocery store (I've found miso in the health food section of several major chains in my area) and start experimenting!

May 28, 2008

Word of the Week: Agar-Agar

Agar-agar, also known as kanten, is a flavorless gelling agent that is derived from seaweed. I know the name sounds strange, but try to be open-minded and give it a try, because it's a wonderful way to replace gelatin in many recipes.

Agar can be purchased in flake, powder, or bar form from many health-food stores and Asian markets and from some grocery stores, such as Whole Foods. And if those options don't work for you, just buy it online. To use agar, dissolve it in liquid and then let it set for about an hour—the firming process doesn't even require refrigeration. Also, you can use almost any liquid you'd like, so get creative with it. Just remember that for a firmer gel, add more agar-agar, and for a softer gel, add more liquid. I think you get the idea.

Here's a quick ratio rundown:

•Substitute powdered agar-agar for gelatin using equal amounts.

•1 Tbsp. of agar-agar flakes is equal to 1 tsp. of agar-agar powder.

•Set 2 cups of liquid using 2 tsp. of agar-agar powder, 2 Tbsp. of agar-agar flakes, or one bar.

Looking for ways to use agar? Here's a Web roundup of a few interesting, and one downright weird, recipes:

Dude, Where's the Stove? shares a recipe for Mom's Kohi Kanten (coffee pudding).

Tofu for Two uses it to make the filling of a Creamy Lime Pie.

Why a Vegan? takes the award for weirdest use of agar-agar, in Vegan Jager Bomb Cupcakes.

Hochiak! uses agar-agar to make a beautiful Dragon Fruit Jelly.

Try one of these recipes, or let me know if you have a better one!

June 5, 2008

The Teese Cheese Test

A Teese cheese pizza!
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Over the last few months, there has been much discussion about this new brand of vegan mozzarella that melts just like real cheese. I've been putting off trying Teese because the last thing I need is to find another soy cheese I love. I already have a problem—why make it worse?

Last weekend I could no longer resist the urge, so I headed over to Cosmo's Vegan Shoppe to buy the new cheese, which comes in at $7.50 for 1 pound, and immediately started planning my next pizza. As soon as I got home, I had to sneak a bite to get the full flavor on its own. I found it to be a little too much like margarine to eat straight up but could immediately tell from the texture that it would melt nicely.

And melt it did! It almost melted a little too much (who would have thought we'd ever say that about a vegan cheese?!). After just a few minutes in the oven, the cheese became quite runny and blended with my pizza sauce, and I was then left with an orange pizza that might be the ugliest thing I've ever photographed. But you can't really judge a pizza by its looks—you have to give it a taste.

Once the pizza cooled and the cheese firmed ever so slightly, I took my first bite. The hints of margarine were still there and so was the amazing texture. In addition to melting better than any other brand of soy cheese I've tried, it also has more creaminess to it that more closely mimics dairy. This is definitely the cheese to give to people who are new to veganism.

If the ooze factor is what you deem essential for your pizza, then you must try Teese (you can order it here). If you don't really care that much about how well it melts and just want something that kinda looks like cheese on your pizza, then you can just go for one of the cheaper brands you can pick up at a local supermarket, in my opinion.


June 12, 2008

Word of the Week: Seitan

Many, myself included, find that seitan (pronounced "SAY tan") is one of the most satisfying foods to use as a meat replacement in recipes. Tofu is sometimes too bland, and the nutty flavor of tempeh can be too overpowering for certain recipes, but seitan falls somewhere in the middle. Seitan—or wheat gluten—has a mild, unique flavor that's easy to pair with other ingredients, and it also has an interesting chewy texture that is often used to mimic chicken.

Since seitan isn't soy-based, as many faux meats are, it opens up tons of recipe options for people who are sensitive to soy. These recipes include club sandwiches, pot "roast," and panko-encrusted seitan, to name just a few. You can find premade seitan at almost any health-food store and some major grocery stores, or get a little crazy and try your hand at making it at home.

Homemade Seitan

For the Gluten:

3 1/2 cups whole wheat flour
3 1/2 cups unbleached white flour
3 1/2 cups cold water

For the Stock:

7 cups water
1/2 to 1 cup shoyu
4 1/4-inch slices of ginger
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 bay leaf
5 inches kombu (sea vegetable, available at health-food stores) or 1 cup vegetable broth

•Place the whole wheat and unbleached flour in a large mixing bowl and stir well to combine.

•While stirring, gradually pour enough water into the flour to form a sticky dough that can be kneaded.

•Punch the dough with your fists several hundred times, kneading for 15 minutes between punches to develop the gluten.

•Cover the dough with cold water, place in the refrigerator, and keep submerged for at least 30 minutes.

•Transfer the dough from the bowl to a colander and place it in the sink. Under cold running water, carefully knead the dough, rinsing out the starch and bran.

•After several minutes of cold water rinsing and kneading, the gluten will start to stick together. Alternate between room temperature water and cold water rinses while continuing to knead the dough until it has a firm, rubbery texture.

•To make the stock, combine the water, shoyu, ginger, garlic, bay leaf, and kombu in a large pot and bring to a boil.

•Pull pieces of gluten into small billiard-size balls. Drop the gluten into the liquid, one piece at a time, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking.

•Cover and simmer for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, depending on the size of the pieces.

•For improved flavor and firmer texture, allow the seitan to cool to room temperature in the broth.

•Store in the refrigerator or freezer, submerged in the broth.

Makes 1 1/4 pounds

June 17, 2008

It's Pronounced KEEN-Wah

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There's this guy I know, Chris, who has a strange fascination with quinoa. It actually borders on mild obsession. Because of his love for the "mother of all grains," I'd like to dedicate this post to him.

Quinoa is a small grain that looks similar to couscous but has an earthier, nuttier flavor. While couscous is usually just a vehicle for whatever dressing or seasonings you put on it, quinoa can stand on its own. It has been cultivated in the Andes for centuries and has been called "the ancient food of the Incas." Funny, because until a couple of years ago, I had never heard of it. And I call myself a foodie!

I'm not quite sure why, but it seems like rice is often the star grain, couscous lands a role in the supporting cast, and quinoa is merely an extra who gets 10 seconds of screen time, at best. This needs to change. The grain should be used and talked about more because it does lend more depth than other grains do to recipes. But it's not just the great flavor that Chris and I love—quinoa is also a great source of nutrients such as protein, iron, fiber, and more.

Below is just one recipe that you can try to sample a little quinoa. Search for "quinoa" in our recipe database and you'll find several more.

Black-Bean Quinoa Salad

For the Dressing:

2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. ground black pepper

•Whisk all the dressing ingredients together and set aside.

For the Quinoa:

1 1/4 cups dry quinoa
1 bay leaf
2 cups water or vegetable stock
1 12-oz. can black beans, drained
1/2 cup chopped red onion
1 large tomato, diced
1/4 cup fresh chopped cilantro
Salt and pepper, to taste

•Place the quinoa in a sieve and rinse under cold running water. Drain and set aside.

•Add the rinsed quinoa, the bay leaf, and the water or stock to a saucepan. Cover and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for approximately 20, or until the quinoa is tender and fluffy. Remove from the heat, then remove the bay leaf.

•Add the black beans, red onion, tomato, cilantro, and dressing, then stir gently. Add additional salt and pepper, if necessary.

Makes 4 cups



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