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Disasters in the Kitchen

September 7, 2007

Focaccia Fiasco

foc2.jpg

I will go ahead and admit that this attempt at focaccia turned out to be kind of a disaster. I don't think it's a bad recipe—I just think I'm a little impatient. OK, I can be very impatient.

Focaccia needs to be thick and spongy, almost doughy, so you have to allow it time to rise properly. The end result can ideally stand on its own, with no need for an olive oil dipping sauce—which I love to need—because the flavor is so rich. What I was left with—after only an hour in the kitchen—more closely resembled, let's say, cardboard. It looked OK but was dense and flavorless.

Next time I try this recipe—and there will be a next time, because I refuse to give up—I will ignore the timer and allow the dough the time it needs to rise. I learned this as rule number one working in a bakery in Athens, Georgia, so I should have known better. But as I said, I'm just a little impatient.

Rosemary-Black Olive Focaccia

1 tsp. sugar
1 (1/4-oz.) pkg. active dry yeast
1/3 cup warm water (110°F)
1 tsp. salt
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 Tbsp. olive oil
2 Tbsp. rosemary
2 Tbsp. sliced black olives
Sea salt and cracked pepper, to taste

•In a small bowl, dissolve the sugar and yeast in the warm water. Let stand until creamy, about 10 minutes.

•In a large bowl, combine the yeast mixture with salt and flour, stirring well to combine. Stir in additional water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until all the flour is absorbed, forming a dough. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knead for about 1 minute.

•Lightly oil a large bowl. Place the dough in the bowl and coat with some of the oil. Cover with a damp cloth and let rise in a warm place until doubled in volume, about 30 minutes.

•Preheat the oven to 475°F.

•Deflate the dough. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knead briefly. Pat or roll into a sheet and place on a lightly greased baking sheet. Brush with oil and sprinkle with the rosemary, black olives, salt, and pepper.

•Bake for 10 to 20 minutes, depending on desired crispness. For a moist, fluffy focaccia, bake for about 10 minutes. For a crispier focaccia, bake for about 20 minutes.

Makes 6 servings


September 14, 2007

Pickling: The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly

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On a recent trip to a Norfolk gas station, I encountered the infamous Kool-Aid pickle—we can refer to him as Tuco. This was a pickling experiment gone very wrong. Tuco, the grotesque and non-edible red pickle, would be more appropriate starring in a B-horror flick than sitting proudly on a counter.

After trying the Kool-Aid pickle, I needed to reassure myself that pickling can actually be good. My grandmother used to make the most amazing pickled garlic, so I decided to find her recipe and try it myself.

The result was crisp and spicy. I used a large dried chili, but if you can't take the heat, use the smallest dried chili you can find. The garlic was perfect on salads, in wraps, and all by itself as an appetizer. An added perk to pickling is that it takes minimal effort to make and keeps for up to a year.

Your pickling ways don't have to end with garlic and cucumbers. Try kimchi—the Korean staple usually made of cabbage—or giardiniera, the Italian topping often served on Chicago-style sandwiches. Or keep it simple and try pickled okra, ginger, or asparagus. I promise that none of these will look quite as scary as Tuco the Kool-Aid pickle.



Spicy Pickled Garlic

1/2 cup white wine vinegar
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 dried chili pepper
1 sprig thyme
1 sprig rosemary
1 bay leaf
10 mixed peppercorns (black, pink, white)
2 tsp. sugar
1/2 tsp. pickling slat
1 cup fresh peeled garlic cloves

•In a nonreactive saucepan over medium heat, combine all the ingredients except the garlic. Bring to a boil and cook for 5 minutes.

•Add the garlic and return to a boil. Cover and remove from the heat. Let sit at room temperature for 24 hours.

•Place the saucepan over medium heat and bring to a boil again. Carefully transfer to a 1/2-pint jar. Let cool.

•Cover tightly and place in the refrigerator. The garlic will be ready to eat in 5 days and can be stored in the refrigerator for up to a year.

Makes 1 quart


February 29, 2008

Recipe Test: Vegan Mayo

vegan_mayo_2.jpg

I've seen several vegan mayonnaise recipes online; most use a soy milk and oil base, and others use tofu. Since I'm a Vegenaise-lovin' fool, I've been skeptical that I would be able to whip up anything quite as tasty in my own kitchen. Just this morning, I decided that now is the time to put my theory to the test.

For my first homemade-mayo experiment, I decided to try the soy milk and oil base because a) it was the easiest recipe to find and b) it received the best reviews online. Like any good scientist, I followed the directions exactly, carefully measuring each ingredient so I could be sure the results truly reflected the recipe.

First I blended all of the ingredients, except the oil, which I then added in slowly. I continued to blend on a slow speed so that the mixture would thicken—that never happened. I would say it became less runny, but it definitely never thickened. If you like a thin mayo that's more like a sauce than a spread, then this one's for you, but I was not pleased.

That's exactly when I diverted from the recipe and added my own touches. A little more oil. Why not? A dash of cornstarch. Why not? The result looked a little more like my beloved, especially after chilling in the fridge for about an hour, but the taste wasn't even close. The cornstarch made it slightly chalky, and the flavor was bland.

Looks like I'll be sticking with my Vegenaise for now, but if anyone has a better recipe or some advice on how to improve this one, please share!

Vegan Mayonnaise

3 Tbsp. lemon juice
1/2 cup soy milk
1/4 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. paprika
1/4 tsp. prepared mustard
6 Tbsp. vegetable oil

•Put all the ingredients except the oil in a blender. Blend on the lowest speed. With the blender running, gradually add the oil until the mixture starts to thicken. Continue blending until thickened and smooth.

•Transfer the mayonnaise to a jar and store in the refrigerator.

Makes 3/4 cup


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